Are there any accessories available for PVC pillow water tanks?
PVC Pillow Water Tanks: What Accessories Do You Actually Need?
So you've got yourself a PVC pillow water tank-or you're thinking about getting one. Good call. They're flexible, portable, and way easier to set up than those rigid concrete monsters.
But here's the thing that catches a lot of people off guard: the tank itself is only half the story.
The real question is-what else do you need to make it actually work for your specific situation? Because a bare tank is just... a big rubbery bag of water. Useful, sure. But add a few smart accessories and it becomes a system. A reliable one that doesn't leak, doesn't overflow, doesn't give you muddy water, and doesn't blow away in a storm.
Let's walk through what's worth getting-and what's probably overkill for most folks.
The stuff that connects everything (fittings)
You can't fill a tank with water out of thin air. And you can't get water out of it without some kind of opening. That's where fittings come in.
Most tanks come with basic connections, but you'll likely need to adapt them to your specific setup. Threaded fittings are the old reliable-they work with standard plumbing, they're cheap, and they don't break easily. Quick-connect fittings? Those are nice if you're moving the tank around a lot. Campsites, construction sites, that kind of thing. You just snap them on and off. No tools.
Barbed fittings are the budget option. They work with hoses. Simple. Effective. Not the prettiest, but who's looking?
A quick tip: whatever you pick, make sure the material matches. Brass on plastic? Different expansion rates. Over time, that's a recipe for tiny leaks that drive you crazy.
Don't let it overflow (float valves)
Ever walked out to your tank and found water gushing everywhere because you forgot to turn off the supply?
Yeah. Me too. Not fun.
Float valves fix that. They're dead simple-a ball on a lever. Water rises, ball rises, valve closes. Water drops, ball drops, valve opens. Set it and forget it.
The trick is getting one that matches your water pressure. Cheap float valves fail under high pressure. Then you're back to square one-water everywhere. Spend a few extra bucks on a brass-body one if your pressure is over 50 PSI. Worth every penny.
Keeping the water clean (filters)
Look, the tank itself is clean. But the water going into it? That's another story.
Rainwater has dust. Well water has sediment. City water has chlorine (and sometimes that weird smell). If you're drinking this water-or giving it to animals-you want filters.
Sediment filters catch the big stuff. Sand, rust flakes, leaves that somehow got in.
Carbon filters handle the taste and odor stuff. Chlorine, sulfury smells, that kind of thing.
Water softeners-only if you've got hard water. They pull out calcium and magnesium so your pipes don't get clogged up with scale.
Do you need all three? Probably not. Most people do just fine with a sediment filter followed by a carbon filter. Keep it simple. Replace them once a year or when the flow slows down.
Pressure regulators-boring but important
Here's something nobody talks about until something breaks.
If your water source has really high pressure-like over 80 PSI-your tank and all those nice fittings you just installed are under constant stress. Eventually, something gives. Usually a fitting cracks. Or the tank fabric starts to stretch weirdly.
A pressure regulator knocks that incoming pressure down to a safe level. Usually around 40–50 PSI. It's a small brass gadget that goes inline before the tank. Costs maybe twenty bucks. Saves you hundreds in repairs.
Not everyone needs this. If you're on gravity-fed tank or a low-pressure pump, skip it. But if you're connected to a municipal supply or a high-head pump? Get one. Seriously.
How full is it? (level indicators)
Some people just knock on the tank and listen. That works, I guess. But there are better ways.
Float-type indicators are simple. A little float inside, a rod outside, you can see the level at a glance. Sight gauges are even simpler-literally a transparent tube on the side of the tank. Water level in the tube = water level in the tank. Works like a charm.
Electronic sensors? Fancy. They'll send data to your phone, ping you when the water's low, all that. Overkill for most small setups, but if you're running a farm or a remote irrigation system? Yeah, that's useful.
Sun is the enemy (protective covers)
PVC is tough. But UV light? That's its kryptonite.
Left in the sun for a few years, even good PVC gets brittle. Cracks start forming. Tiny ones at first. Then one day you've got a leak you can't find. Frustrating.
A cover solves that. Fabric covers are light and cheap. Plastic covers are heavier but last longer. Insulated covers are for cold climates-they keep the water from freezing in winter, which is a lifesaver if you're in, say, Montana or somewhere similarly freezing.
Honestly? Even a simple tarp thrown over the top helps. Not pretty, but it blocks UV and that's what matters.
Keeping it from flying away (anchoring)
This one depends on where you live.
Windy area? You need to anchor it. A full tank is heavy-hundreds of gallons of water weighs a lot. But an empty or half-empty tank? That's basically a giant sail.
Ground stakes, concrete blocks, steel cables-any of these work. The key is to spread the load so the fabric doesn't tear at the attachment points. Use wide straps, not thin ropes. Trust me on this.
Hose reels-nice to have, not essential
Not strictly necessary. But if you're coiling up a 100-foot hose every day, you'll appreciate having one.
Manual reels are cheap and reliable. Automatic ones are convenient but more expensive and one more thing that can break. Pick based on how often you're moving hoses around.
So what's the bottom line?
The accessories you actually need depend on your situation. But here's a cheat sheet:
| Your Situation | Must-Have | Nice-to-Have |
|---|---|---|
| Small backyard setup | Fittings, float valve | Sediment filter |
| Livestock watering | Float valve, sediment filter | Protective cover |
| High-pressure supply | Pressure regulator, brass fittings | – |
| Rainwater harvesting | Sediment + carbon filter | Level indicator |
| Windy/remote area | Anchoring system | Electronic level sensor |
A bare tank works. But a tank with the right accessories? That's a setup you don't have to think about. It just works. Day after day. Year after year.
If you're not sure what fits your specific setup-drop a question. Happy to point you in the right direction. No sales pitch. Just honest advice.